Short and Snappy dated 1st September 2009

September 7, 2009 by sriramv

Masked Marvels

 

The Man from Madras Musings has recently been going walkabout and what he is amazed at is the way people have taken to wearing medical masks in an attempt to ward off the dreaded H1N1 virus. Any alien coming down to Madras that is Chennai can be pardoned for imagining that this is a city of masked bandits. No matter that the Health Department has repeatedly issued bulletins that the virus is so microscopic that such masks are no protection against it. There is now apparently a shortage of these masks and those who are not lucky enough to possess one have decided to make do with their handkerchiefs. As to how this can be of any use is beyond MMM but there it is. What is interesting is that when it comes to a sneeze or a cough, most mask users doff the masks. Perhaps they believe in spreading the good germ around. It is also interesting that nobody is paying attention to the health warning which has sensible words of advice. It asks people to shun crowded places. But you need only walk down to the closest shopping mall, cinema theatre, multiplex or T Nagar to see that this piece of advice has fallen on deaf ears (perhaps because of the mask) and everyone and his uncle (or her aunt) is out there in the crowded areas, replete with these useless masks. The warning also requests people not to spit in public. But how can we be forbidden from indulging in our national pastime? So off go the masks when it is spitting time.

 

What MMM would like to know is whether these masked men (and women) are really serious about protecting themselves or whether they intend these masks to be fashion statements. Some have them carelessly slung around their necks while others wear them like the ruffs that Queen Elizabeth I made famous. This reminds MMM of the times of his youth when the spondylitis collar was the ultimate status symbol. While the problem of the back came to just about anyone it was only the rich that wore these collars. We now live in more egalitarian times. And you should have seen the joy on a neighbour of ours who was asked to wear one by the doctor. She would never wear it at home but would religiously sport it while attending social get-togethers.

 

To come back to the H1N1 mask, MMM is of the view that Chennaiites face a new crisis of which they will become aware of only as time wears on. This is the question of how to greet people now. The Health Department warning expressly forbids the shaking of hands. It also frowns on touching any part of the face and so the pat on the cheek with which Dr S Radhakrishnan greeted the Soviet Dictator Stalin is now out of question. As for warm hugs, which the Chief is adept at especially with the young uns, that is completely ruled out. Smiling may not be of any use given that the mask hides grins and grimaces. The only way out is to follow the tribal custom of sticking out the tongue. This may not be such a bad idea. The tongue is often a dead giveaway of bodily conditions but then the tongue too would be hidden behind the mask and anyone who sticks his or her tongue out may get a mouthful of mask (ugh!). Perhaps the traditional Indian namaste is the best. That way you keep your dirt and MMM keeps his.

 

But whatever happens MMM (the Man from Madras Musings) will never become MMM (Man in the Medical Mask). Before we go on to other subjects, what is this?

 

“hmmfpppsmmmf”

 

“fmmmspppfmmh”

 

Two men in medical masks trying to speak to each other.

 

Telephone surveys

 

The Man from Madras Musings has frequently lamented about telemarketing agencies calling him on the phone at all odd hours disturbing his peace and making him think of homicidal thoughts. And the manufacturer of the car that MMM uses surely takes the cake. Shortly after the purchase, MMM was touched to receive a call asking him if all was well with the vehicle. MMM replied with great cordiality that all was indeed well whereupon the voice at the other end beamed (or at least MMM assumes it did), MMM beamed back and the call ended.

 

After a month, there was another call asking if all was well. MMM was a trifle brusque but managed to answer with civility that the car was doing fine. A month later there was one more call asking if all was well. This time MMM began having doubts. Perhaps two months was the most that anyone who bought this particular brand of car could be happy for. MMM also began worrying if there was something particularly wrong with the car which they had hidden from him. Did it mean that they were frequently checking up to see that the car and MMM were still in one piece (or two pieces taking car and MMM as two different entities)? Then matters ceased for a while and MMM had practically forgotten about the issue when there was a call last week from the Bangalore branch of the same car company. “We are simply checking up about our vehicle” was the opening line. “Your Chennai office has been doing more than a good job of it” was MMM’s reply. “Oh!” came the rather surprised reply and the caller hung up. He left MMM in a state of unease with vague misgivings about the future. For if MMM’s car is now receiving national attention …

 

Colourful Chennai

 

What’s up with city the Man from Madras Musings wonders. Till recently this was not really a colourful place though the Chief may disagree. Buildings were painted white which with successive seasons turned a dull grey interspersed with moss green when the drains worked overtime. But of late, homes and offices have begun sporting colours that defy logic. Magenta, a variety of pink that in days of yore would be associated with cheeni mittai, yellow (of the daffodil variety), red, ochre… you name them and we have them. Government buildings are not lagging behind either. Several of them are nowadays painted in aquamarine or bottle-green and if that paint is not available then they are daubed with a sky-blue colour. Motorists who are sensitive to colours have been known to shy suddenly and cause accidents when while rounding a corner they unexpectedly come across these bright creations. It would appear that someone somewhere was left with a surplus consignment of paints meant for a child’s playroom or a discotheque and rather smartly decided to market it to house-owners and Government departments and is now laughing all the way to the bank.

 

 

Tailpiece

 

The Man from Madras Musings was at Central Station the other day and overheard two railway porters talking about their sons. One was quite disgusted with his offspring and said that his position was so bad that he (the son) did not even have a cell phone. The other commiserated with the first in his hour of misfortune. Which made MMM wonder as to what the two would think of the Chief. A gentle pity would perhaps be the most that the Chief could expect.

Songs by Papanasam Sivan on the Kapaliswarar Temple

September 3, 2009 by sriramv
Songs by Papanasam Sivan on the Kapaliswarar Temple    
Song Raga Tala  
Karpagavalliyin saranakamalamtanai Arabhi Adi  
Karpagame Madhyamavati Adi  
Karpagambike kadaikkann Bilahari Rupakam  
Sankari dayakari Begada Adi  
Karunanidhiye taaye Bhauli Tisra triputa
Amba unaiye nambinen Shankarabharanam Desadi  
Un padamaladu Kalyani Adi  
Unaiyallal Kalyani Adi  
Ennai kaatarulvadu Hemavati Adi  
Kalpakamata Hindolam Adi  
Kalpagambike Sri Adi  
Kalpagambike Bhairavi Rupakam  
Kalpagambikai Behag Adi  
Kalpagambikaiyundu Shuddha Saveri Khanda Jhampa
Kanittarul Kalyani Tisra Adi  
Kaakka unakkirakkam Kharaharapriya Adi  
Devi undan Mukhari Adi  
Naanoru vilayattu Navarasa Kannada Adi  
Nilambari Nilambari Adi  
Nenje Shuddha Seemantini Adi  
Maata innum Sri Ranjani Adi  
Unnai bhajikka arul ta Begada Adi
Kapali irukka Saveri Jhampa
Tannai bhajikkalagada Athana Adi
Dikku verillai Varali Adi
Pada malarin Saveri Adi
Padam nambinen Kalyani Adi
Paramukham tagumo Mukhari Adi
Saundarya vellantanil Mohanam Adi
Kailasa vasa sarvesa Hindolam Adi
Karpagavalli vama Bhauli/Kedara/Bilahari/Devagandhari/Asaveri Adi
Kadaikkan nokki Todi Adi
Kaana kann kodi Kamboji Adi
Tiruvalar mayilayin Khamas Adi
Kapali Mohanam Adi
Mayilapuriyil vanda Bhairavi Misra chapu
Nambi kettavar Hindolam Adi
Sarvesa adimayai Bilahari Adi
Karunai puri Todi Adi
Picchaikku vandiro Surutti Adi
Tanjam enrale Abhogi Adi
Yen unakkinum Kapi Adi
Kapali karunainidhi Hamsadhvani Adi
Adimai mel Nata Adi
Unnai ninaithale Senjurutti Adi
Kalpagambikaiyin Latangi Adi
Kapalisane Khamas Adi
Karunakarane Kiravani Adi
Karpaga manohara Malayamarutam Jhampa
Shambho Umapate Pantuvarali Adi
Siridenum Bhairavi Khanda Jhampa
Paada paada Kamboji Adi
Padame tunai Valaji Adi
Mahadeva  Shuddha Seemantini Adi
Samagana Hindolam Adi
Mayil vaahanane Kalyani Adi

Pattinathar Samadhi in Tiruvottriyur

September 1, 2009 by sriramv

At a time when senior civil servants have met up and discussed the possibility of a heritage act to save Chennai’s historic buildings, a private initiative at restoration appears to have been successful going by results. This is the Pattinathar Samadhi which stands by the sea-shore near Tiruvottiyur. I visited the place a couple of weeks ago was amazed at the cleanliness with which it is being maintained.

 

The Samadhi is the burial spot of the mortal remains of Pattinathar, the 15th century saint. While a superstructure appears to have existed even in early times, the present structure over the sepulchre cannot be more than a 100 years old. In recent years the building had become a den of vice with anti-social elements having the run of the place. But that appears to be a matter of the past and certainly today the shrine is well tended to and draws a stream of visitors. The access to the Samadhi however is not easy as it is now completely hemmed in by a vast slum colony

 

The superstructure over the Samadhi is a building of low height which has a flat ceiling comprising wooden planks above which is a vaulted roof. It is divided into three sections – a congregational hall in the front, a narrow vestibule in the middle and the sanctum at the rear. Flooring is of black slabs probably of the Cuddappah variety and the walls are of chunam. The building is fronted by a space covered by a sloping roof structure with Mangalore tiles. What is interesting is that the recent renovation has kept all these elements intact.

 

Too often, temple renovation in Madras has meant usage of red granite, marble, or even worse, glazed tiles, all of which are alien to temple architecture. None of these have been used here, probably owing to paucity of funds! After attending to minimum and essential structural repairs, the place has been given a coat of whitewash and the woodwork has been painted over. The wooden planks have been left as they are. Even records of recent donations have been inscribed on black stone slabs so that they blend harmoniously.

 

If only trusts that own similar buildings and structures would pay attention to what they possess and take some care of their maintenance, heritage would be a matter of every day life.

Indira Parthasarathy on Bangalore Nagarathnamma

August 26, 2009 by sriramv

It was with great delight that I accidentally came across Indira Parthasarathy’s synopsis of my book.

http://www.uyirmmai.com/Uyirosai/ContentDetails.aspx?cid=1865

Dubash Walk

August 24, 2009 by sriramv

Madras Week has ended! Whew! A review of the Dubash Walk. Only there were 34 people and not 15 as is mentioned!

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/4900130.cms

Caldwell- Scholar and Missionary

August 20, 2009 by sriramv

caldwellOn 8th January 1838, the Mary Ann weighed anchor off Madras. On board was a young man filled “with a compound of anxiety, wonder and hope”. He had been preparing for a missionary career in India from four years previously when he joined the Congregational Church of Glasgow. In 1834 he had enlisted and made an offer of service to the London Missionary Society (LMS) which in turn had sponsored his education at the University of Glasgow. His missionary training had taken place simultaneously and he had boarded the Mary Ann on August 30th 1837. When he did so, he would not have realised that this was the first step of a career that would last for half a century in one of the hottest parts of India – Tirunelveli. The young man, then 24 years of age, was Robert Caldwell.

 

In Madras Caldwell worked on the evangelisation of the lowest castes, the untouchables. He also spent his time learning Tamil. Later he was transferred to the English speaking churches in the city as there was a shortage of priests there. This, he felt was drawing him away from what he felt was his true calling and in 1841 he submitted his resignation to the LMS and decided to join the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel (SPG), one of the Church of England missions. In July that year he was admitted to the order of deacon at the St Stephen’s Church, Ootacamund and set off on foot a couple of months later to Idayangudi in Tirunelveli, which would be his headquarters for the remaining part of his life. He was fascinated by the name of the place, for it meant the dwelling of a shepherd and felt “that it was a very appropriate name for the residence of a Missionary Pastor and very suggestive of the duties which I had come there to discharge”. The state of the congregation, largely comprising Shanars was wretched in the extreme. Though Christianity was not new to Tirunelveli, having come to the place in 1771 or thereabouts, real success by way of conversions had been experienced only from the 1790s. This had resulted in clashes between the converts and Hindu revivalists leading to a tense atmosphere.

 

Arriving in such a scenario, Caldwell saw that his first task was to spread education among the masses and also create some sense of order in the village, which apart from the church buildings, was a complete mess. He concentrated on education for the children of the lower castes and the sarcastic remarks of School Inspectors on the futility of teaching to such children notwithstanding achieved success. He revived the boys’ schools and opened a school for girls as well. Caldwell also ensured retention of student interest by luring them on occasion with money and pori kadalai mixed with jaggery. Three days a week he travelled to the neighbouring villages and set up a church building in each of them. Once there were three converts in a village, he set them up as a separate congregation. He came into close contacts with the villages and by 1844, the original 300 members of his parish had expanded to 2000. A severe challenge to the stability of his congregation came about that year when there was an outbreak of cholera. In the past such epidemics resulted in mass reversals to the original faith. This time, Caldwell, by keeping up his regular visits, ensured that his flock remained intact. It was also in 1841 that he married Eliza, the daughter the Rev. Charles Mault of the LMS, Travancore and in her he found the ideal wife. Immediately after the marriage, she began a boarding school for girls, an unthinkable concept for the times. She introduced lace making as a vocation for women which ensured that they had a steady income.

 

Though from 1844 Caldwell did not achieve the kind of success in conversions as he had seen earlier, he focused his attentions on consolidating the faithful. Believing that any congregation ought to be self sufficient, he encouraged them to form the Church Building Society to which each member was to contribute the equivalent of one day’s labour. The Tinnevelly Tract Society was established to ensure availability of bibles in the entire district. A Poor Fund was set up to help the poor among Christians. By 1851, the efforts of Caldwell had borne fruit. There was a surge in conversions with once as many as 64 baptisms in a single day. The SPG in its summary of missions in South India in 1851 singled out Idayangudi for the progress it had made.

 

Caldwell was keen that locals take on the task of building churches in their villages. He hoped that “the Churches of India may at length rival, as the heathen temples do already, the Churches of Europe”. The crowning glory of his work was the construction of the Holy Trinity Church of Idayangudi for which he was the fund-raiser, architect and manager. Begun in 1847, it was completed in 1880 when over 8000 people attended the dedication ceremony. By then it had attained the status of a mother church for over 40 churches. Basing his ideas on the panchayat system in Indian villages, Caldwell established Christian Municipalities which followed Christian laws, governed by a Nyaya Sabha on the lines of the panchayats. He also developed a chain of native agents comprising missionaries, pastors, lay-helpers, catechists and schoolmasters who helped European missionaries in their work. These were trained to carry out routine activities and they were also asked to mingle with the locals in a way that European missionaries could not and thereby encourage greater adherence to Christianity.

 

Caldwell’s greatest successes in conversion were in the Shanar community. As he turned his attention to other castes, he was faced with two problems. The first concerned the tendency among the converts to carry their caste prejudices with them into Christianity, in which of course there was no place for such ideas. He took several steps such as organising common feasts and counselling and as a final extreme, suspension from communion and dismissal from mission employment. All these had limited impact for caste ideas had taken firm root by then among the Christians. His moves however had the positive impact of the Shanars banding together in their villages which became symbols of resistance against oppression from higher castes. Ironically, Caldwell’s monograph The Tinnevelly Shanars, which portrayed the community as a backward one, resulted in vehement protests from Shanars themselves. This resulted in a schism of sorts with the emergence of Sattampillai who broke away and formed the Hindu Christian Church of Lord Jesus in 1857. Sattampillai fashioned his own version of the history of the Shanars and protests over Caldwell’s monograph were to become a regular feature for very many years. It also heralded the tradition of various communities and castes creating their own romantic versions of their histories, a trend that still continues.

 

In 1877, Caldwell was made Coadjutor Bishop of Madras with his jurisdiction being the SPG churches in Tirunelveli. His attempts to convert Hindus of the higher castes became stronger after this, though it must be said that he had been systematically working on this from earlier times. To him as to other missionaries on similar work, higher caste converts were prize catches. It is ironic that Caldwell, who held the Brahmins responsible for most evils of caste should aspire to convert them the most and when he eventually succeeded in 1870 in converting a Hindu couple he wrote that he felt “such a thrill pass through (his) old heart that he had to put some force on (his) feelings to go through with the service”. His efforts in conversion of higher castes met with very limited success and though he considered that the “conversion of India to Christ is one of the greatest works to which the Church and the nation of England are called” he did not succeed in realising his dream to the fullest.

 

Caldwell today is however remembered more for his writings than for his missionary activities and his achievements here are really astounding. He viewed India with its multiple languages as the best place to study comparative philology. In this he was carrying forward a tradition of several European missionaries and several English officers who had made a serious study of Indian languages. Tamil had received great attention from them, and even in the immediate vicinity of where Caldwell functioned, there were at least three scholars- the well-known GU Pope of Sawyerpuram, John Thomas of Meganapuram and Edward Sargent of Suviseshapuram. Caldwell enjoyed a relationship of mutual respect and admiration with all three and this undoubtedly helped in his work. At least three decades earlier, the establishment of the College of Fort St. George (1812) had spurred an interest among civil servants on matters oriental and this saw the establishment of what was called the Madras School of Orientalism with FW Ellis (1777-1819) and AD Campbell (1798-1857) and later CP Brown (1794-1884) being important figures associated with it. The College funded research into Indian languages and it was Campbell’s works, a Telugu grammar published in 1816 and a Telugu English dictionary in 1821 that first posited the thesis that Telugu, Tamil and other South Indian languages were not of Sanskrit origin but belonged to a unique Dravidian family. In his preface to the Telugu grammar, Ellis offered substantial evidence on this. Caldwell, who had interacted with CP Brown during his voyage out to India in 1837, was to follow this school of thought.

 

He began his work on South Indian languages in 1853 when he went to England on a furlough, which lasted for four years giving him an opportunity to recoup his health and also share his experiences with congregations in England. In 1856, while still in England, Caldwell completed the Comparative Grammar of Dravidian Languages, a ground breaking philological work on the history and structure of Dravidian languages. In the words of Thomas Trautmann, “the real significance of what Caldwell accomplished was not the first conception of the Dravidian family but the consolidation of the proof”. It was for the first time that the term Dravidian was used, albeit for philological reasons, to describe the region of South India and its languages. Later this was to become a political identity that still holds sway. Caldwell argued that Tamil in particular, “was the most cultivated of the all Dravidian idioms. (It) can dispense with Sanskrit if need be and not only stand alone but flourish without its aid.” In addition, the work dealt with a number of ethnological issues. It criticised Brahmin domination over religion and social customs and questioned the “undeserving prominence” gained by Brahmins in the socio-cultural order of Tamil speaking regions. The Brahmin according to Caldwell may have imparted a “few higher forms of civilisation” but these had been “more than counterbalanced by the fossilising caste rules, the practical pantheistic philosophy and the cumbersome routine of inane ceremonies”. He blamed Brahmins for introducing idol worship and also for their negative contribution to Tamil. He dismissed them by saying that few Brahmins “have written anything (in Tamil) worthy of preservation. The highest rank of Tamil literature which has been reached by a Brahmin is that of a commentator.” It is ironic that even as this work was being written, U Ve Swaminatha Iyer was born in Utthamadanapuram.

 

Caldwell’s work was received with great acclaim. The University of Madras which was set up the next year approved the work as a text book for higher examinations. Caldwell’s alma mater, the University of Glasgow bestowed its LLD on him for the work. He also became a Fellow of the University of Madras and delivered its convocation address in 1879. His reputation as a philologist soared all over Europe.

 

While in England, Caldwell wrote a series of articles for the Colonial Church Chronicle and Missionary Journal. This was to inform the English of the work done by the Missions in Tirunelveli and dispel the commonly held notion that missionary work in India was not of much benefit to anyone. These articles were compiled and published as Lectures on the Tinnevelly Missions in 1857. In these he propounded the theory that Hinduism was the culmination of an evolution from a series of cults, beliefs and rituals under the aegis of Brahmins and for the benefit of Brahmins. He argued that Hinduism was never a monolithic religion as it was made out to be.

 

In 1881, Caldwell published his Political and General History of the District of Tinnevelly in The Madras Presidency, from the Earliest Period to its Cession to the English Governmeny in AD 1801. He spent years researching this book and his efforts were rewarded when the publishing of the work was undertaken by the Madras Government which also, unasked for, gave him an honorarium of Rs 1000. The work, governed by Utilitarian and Evangelical thinking, held the British Government to be the best thing that happened to areas such as Tirunelveli. He disagreed with the early Orientalist view that idealised India’s past. The work is significant in that it documented the history of a region that had not received much attention earlier. In the same year Caldwell also published his History of the Tinnevelly Mission. Throughout his life, he was to continue writing. His monograph on the Shanars is already dealt with. He also worked on translating the bible into Tamil and in creating a Prayer Book in Tamil. In collaboration with Sargent he revised the Tamil Hymn Book and rearranged it for use in the Anglican service. A number of booklets and pamphlets to encourage Christianity were brought out by him.

 

In 1882, Caldwell shifted the seat of his episcopate from Idayangudi to Tuticorin as the latter town had all the “establishments and institutions as should make it a strong, influential centre”. He then focused more on education, upgrading the Anglo Vernacular School, setting up a school suitable for Hindus and along with Eliza setting up infrastructure to encourage education among women. The College department of the Tirunelveli SPG was shifted from Sawyerpuram to Tuticorin and this was the seed of a new college for higher education in the latter town. In 1883 this was named the Caldwell College.

 

Caldwell’s last years were however his toughest with frequent arguments and disagreements with the Madras Diocesan Committee of the SPG. His friend Sargent passed away leaving him alone. There was friction in his own entourage, and one among these, the Rev Margoschis was to prove a major irritant. A much younger missionary, the latter came from England full of the new Oxford Movement ideas and with much greater energy. The MDC generally sided with Margoschis and several of Caldwell’s recommendations especially his desire for independence of the Tirunelveli Church were successfully negated. The Rev Sharrock, a Caldwell protégé, came in for targeted attacks and was finally dismissed from the MDC on grounds of ill-treating his subordinates. There were moves to cripple the Caldwell College by taking away its grants and scholarships, all of which Caldwell managed to stave off. But the MDC finally succeeded, with Margoschis in the years after Caldwell’s death, in closing the college in 1893. The efforts of Eliza in setting up further educational institutions were not encouraged and in 1890 Caldwell offered to step down citing his old age and requesting that he be paid a pension for his remaining years. The condition of a pension roused the SPG’s ire and this was the subject of much debate with the SPG London finally sanctioning it a year later. Caldwell retired to Kodaikanal in 1891 and passed away there the same year on 28th August. His body was  brought back to Idayangudi and laid to rest in the church he built. Eliza joined him in eternal rest in 1899.

 

The life of Caldwell has been researched extensively and written as a book “Robert Caldwell: A Scholar-Missionary in Colonial South India” by Y Vincent Kumaradoss. It makes for fascinating reading and is a detailed account of a man who came to South India on missionary work and stayed on to make an impact on its political consciousness and in the spread of education. Caldwell is remembered today with a statue on the Marina Beach.

Ramanathapuram Poochi Srinivasa Iyengar

July 31, 2009 by sriramv

This year marks Poochi’s 150th birth anniversary which falls in August. His 90th death anniversary fell earlier this month

 

An article from The Hindu -http://www.hindu.com/fr/2009/07/31/stories/2009073151490400.htm

Madras Week Events by Madras Musings

July 28, 2009 by sriramv

Chennai Heritage Programmes for Madras Week

PLEASE NOTE CHANGE OF SPEAKER FOR THE 17TH OF AUGUST 

Heritage Tours: All Chennai Heritage tours are priced at Rs 250 per head and require reservations in advance.

 

Date Theme Starting Point & Time Time Duration Contact for reservation
15/8/09 The Justice Party 6.15 am at Panagal Park entrance 2hrs 30 mins editor@madrasmusings.com 
16/8/09 Some Dubashes of Madras 6.15 am at the High Court Compound, NSC Bose Road 2 hrs editor@madrasmusings.com
16/8/09 The Story of the Beach 6.15 am at the Mahatma Gandhi Statue 2 hrs editor@madrasmusings.com
23/8/09 Swami Vivekananda’s Madras 6.15 am at the Ramakrishna Math, Kutchery Road, Mylapore 2hrs 30 mins editor@madrasmusings.com

The Justice Party tour itinerary takes you through T Nagar and details the history of the party that was the founder of several present day trends in Tamil Nadu politics. Many of the leaders of the party are commemorated with streets names in this area. Many more have been forgotten. Come to celebrate the roles of Sir Pitty Thyagaraya Chetty, the Rajah of Paanagal, C Natesa Mudaliar, Dr TM Nair, J Venkatanarayana Naidu, Gopathi Narayanaswami Chetty, Sivagnanam Pillai, Sir AP Patro and many more. Led by Sriram V

 

Dubashes, or men who knew two languages – Dvi Bhashis played a tremendous role in the creation of Madras that is Chennai. Though largely forgotten, their contributions are worth commemorating, whether positive or negative. Come and celebrate the histories of Cassa Verona, Thambu Chetty, Alangatha Pillai, Sunkurama Chetty, Avadhanam Papaiah, V Perumal Chetty and family, Ketty Narain Dewan Bahadur V Shanmuga Mudaliar and a couple of other surprises. Led by Sriram V

 

Swami Vivekananda’s two visits to Madras that is Chennai were studies in contrast. In the first he was completely unknown and the story of his movements here is a study of the citizens gradually discovering a treasure in their midst. When he came the second time, he was an international celebrity and the city rose in jubilation. Let us trace his path from through popular locations such as Ice House to the unknown sites such as Rahmat Bagh and Patters Gardens. Led by Karthik Bhatt and Sriram V

 

All three are tours by van with short distances on foot. They all end with breakfast – a vital aspect of Chennai’s Heritage!

 

Talks

 

Date Venue Speaker Topic Time
16/8/09 Dublin, Park Sheraton Randor Guy Some scandals of Madras 4.00 PM
17/8/09 The Park Aruna Sairam A musician’s perspective of Chennai 6.30 PM
18/8/09 Park Sheraton CV Karthik Narayan Chennai- The Detroit of India 6.30 PM
19/8/09 Amir Mahal S Anwar Muslims and Mosques of Madras 6.30 PM
20/8/09 The Park Mohan Raman Madras Nalla Madras- Tribute to Nagesh 6.30 PM
21/8/09 Taj Coromandel Vedant Bharadwaj Music performance featuring songs from the city 7.00 PM
22/8/09 Rain Tree Chitra Madhavan The Four well-known temples of Madras 6.30 PM
23/8/09 Sir M Ct M Boys School, Puraswalkam Zhayyn James The Seven Wells and the Nicholas Family 5.00 PM

 All talks are free. Refreshments will be served for the first half hour after which the talks will begin

 

Roja Muthiah Library Talks- 17th August 2009 – Saravanan on Arutpa Marutpa, 18th August – Theodore Bhaskaran on Emden Potta Gundu. Both talks at 5.00 pm

Nizhal Walks

 

Both walks need registration in advance and are priced at Rs 50 per head.

 

Date Venue Time of Starting Contact
16/8/09 May Day Park (opposite Chindadripet MRTS) 6.45 am (walk is for 1 hr and 15 mins) 9445258328 or 9840744453
23/8/09 My Ladye’s Garden, Sydenhams Road 4.45 pm (walk is for 1 hr and 15 mins) 9445258328 or 9840744453

 

 

People’s Park Vazhi Nadai Chindu – A dance performance based on the poem of the same name published in 1915 describing the sights and scenes of Madras city as seen by a young couple as they walk from George Town to Mylapore to participate in the Arupathumoovar festival. Date: 16/8/09 Time: 9.00 am, Venue: Tag Centre; Admission restricted to the invitees of the South India Heritage Series and their guests

 

South India Heritage Series – Madras as seen in early Tamil films – an audio visual presentation by Mohan Raman. Date: 30/8/09 Time: 9.00 am, Venue: Tag Centre; Admission restricted to the invitees of the South India Heritage Series and their guests

 

For more events log on to www.themadrasday.in

Short and Snappy July 16th 2009

July 27, 2009 by sriramv

Passing Out Parade

 

Passing away is of course a painful thing for those around, though hopefully those who pass away do not feel anything later. The Man from Madras Musings at least fervently hopes that the latter aspect is really true, for given the way our city’s denizens send off their dear departed, it cannot be anything but painful for those who are seen off.

 

MMM has in the past written questioning the necessity for publicising deaths by printing posters with two weeping eyes set on either side of a photograph of the one who had popped off. This time it is the concept of the funeral procession that MMM would like to complain about. Given the kind of traffic we have, do we need these funeral processions?

 

The other day MMM was driving near the Institute of Mental Health at Kilpauk (now what took MMM there?)  when all traffic came to a halt. Police personnel were forcing the traffic coming up the road via a narrow opening in the median on to the opposite side. Those coming down the road had to hastily make way for the traffic up and the confusion that resulted could only be imagined.

 

Was it an accident MMM wondered. And then came the distant thumping of drums in a tattoo that MMM, after long years in the city has come to associate with funeral processions. The drum-beaters came into view and walked on regally coursing down the lane now devoid of traffic and were followed by a hearse that did not contain the dear departed but a group of mourners all laughing and shouting, stripping flowers off a garland and strewing the petals on the road. Then dancers, who probably under the influence of the stuff that cheers put up what can be termed as a ‘spirited’ performance. All these were accompanied by local toughs referred to for some reason in the Madras vernacular as ‘pista’s (why should they be equated with the pistachio?) who were bursting crackers. Those that were not doing this were trying to regulate the traffic which was thrown into chaos in the first place by these very same people. The regulating they did was not much different from that of the police. It mainly involved shoving cyclists and two-wheeler users rudely to one side and intimidating car users with rude gestures and trading abuses with bus and truck drivers. In the midst of this all was the bier, with the late lamented swathed in garlands, no doubt secretly glad that all this had come to an end and if he/she got through this procession in one piece, he/she can look forward to the peace of the grave. Even hell-fire would be preferable to a Madras traffic jam on a hot summer’s day. The bier incidentally was carried by pall-bearers. It is only our city that a hearse would be used for strewing flowers while the body is carried manually.

 

MMM is not certain, but if more such processions happen, more and more people who use roads will swell the ranks of those already under the care of the Institute of Mental Health. What MMM is certain about however is that these processions do not take place after obtaining any sort of permission from the police. That noble force appears to be as surprised about these as the lesser mortals on the road.

 

 

 

 

Competitive Comfort

 

We at Madras Musings celebrate the past, but if there is one aspect of it that the Man from Madras Musings does not look back upon with nostalgia it is the control that our Government once exercised on telephone services. MMM remembers a time when a phone connection took years and then after it was sanctioned, the instrument, rather aptly black, took months to come after which the connection was established only after follow ups for weeks and then the line went dead within days if not hours. Complaints had no effect and telephone users were periodically administered shocks by being presented with huge bills even when the connection never worked. In Calcutta, a public spirited city like no other, a funeral procession was organised for a telephone that had remained dead for months. Thousands of mourners joined the procession (rather like the one described above) and the instrument was cremated solemnly amidst multi-faith chants. Not that it had even the smallest effect on the Department of Telephones.

 

But how things have changed. There are now many agencies offering these services, telephones come in various colours and connections work, though the billing still administers periodic shocks. MMM is quite happy to be living in this present age, where he knows that when he dials a number he will get through. But even MMM can be surprised. The other day MMM’s land line, which is a number given by the Government controlled enterprise, went dead. A complaint was registered and within an hour a man arrived and said the line was fine, it was the instrument which MMM had purchased from the market that was faulty. MMM said that he would change the instrument and sent the man off. Within an hour, the man was back. He had noticed he said, that MMM did not have another instrument ready with him and so he, the man, had brought a phone to replace the faulty one. It was a used phone which was lying about at office he said rather apologetically, but it should work. The task completed, the line now working, the man departed having given an open mouthed MMM a dazzling smile. Not one rupee had been demanded and none given. It was an amazing experience and even now MMM finds himself frequently reaching out to the telephone just to make sure it is for real.

 

 Having said that, MMM wishes that the Department would get better voices for its recorded messages. There is one which says “Dyulled number yis buzzy. Please dyul yafter some tayam” which takes the cake. It then goes on to say the same thing in Hindi which sounds even worse. MMM strongly suspects that both announcements were read out from a script written in Tamil. Surely in this time and age we can get some pleasanter voices with better accents.

 

Tamil, the lingua franca

 

Now that Madras Week is around the corner, the Chief has this habit of looking quizzically at the Man from Madras Musings and MMM gets the message. “What are you doing for Madras Week?” is the unspoken question and MMM went walkabout with a colleague who organises heritage walks. Our quest took us to Kesava Perumal Sannadhi South Street in Mylapore. Having come to the vicinity of the street, MMM and colleague could not identify the place whereupon MMM stepped up to an auto rickshaw driver and asked him as to where Kesava Perumal Terku Sannadhi Street was. “No such place” was the terse reply. MMM persisted. How is it that there are streets for all the other cardinal directions but not South asked MMM. “Oh you mean South, then why did you ask for Terku?” was the reply. MMM left it at that.

Short and Snappy of 1st July 2009

July 24, 2009 by sriramv

Novel ways to conserve water

 basin without a tap

This precious liquid resource, the Man from Madras Musings is well aware, is on its way out. There are posters that predict that its supply is getting scarcer and other Cassandras have said that if wars have been fought over oil, the next World War will be over water. MMM was recently at a local branch of a nationalized bank in the city and had to attend a call of nature. When he went to the bathroom, he found a poster that carried messages on water conservation and then when he turned to the wash basin this is what he saw. Could it be, MMM wondered, that the budget for the toilet renovation was exhausted just before the taps could be put in place? And if so, is the bank awaiting the next sanction of funds before getting taps? But what MMM also noticed was that the granite table top had no provision for taps of any kind. Obviously then, this is an inspired method of conserving water. No taps- no water! Simple.

 

Happy happenings at Central

 

Too often, those of you who read the writings of the Man from Madras Musings have felt that he is more of a Jeremiah. Be more like Pollyanna is your cry. Enough of these lamentations you have said and see the sunny side. MMM has been of the view that there is no sunny side in many matters, but then, he is happy to announce that this time he is prepared to sing the praises of a new system at the Central Station. It may have been there from long but MMM availed of it only recently and therefore to him it is still new. MMM is speaking of the bus service from the Central to various parts of the city. These are air-conditioned coaches that wait at the entrance to the station and gone are the days when you had to come out of the building dreading the thought of having to interact with the aggressive auto-rickshaw drivers and their alternate blandishments and threats. You now simply stride across to the bus stand, look for the bus that goes via your destination, pay the fare and sit in comfort and before you know it, you are dropped at a location closest to your home from where you can avail of local transport or simply walk across. Not only is this energy friendly (imagine how many car journeys are saved), it is also user friendly and above all, it is shows how effective public transport can be as compared to using private means. MMM however finds that such a service is not available from the Central’s poor cousin – namely Egmore. Why this is so MMM cannot understand but he hopes that this service will be extended to that location also.  

 

Big Fat Chennai Weddings

 

The Man from Madras Musings has with experience come to the conclusion that it is easier to send greeting telegrams as compared to attending weddings in person in this, our city. If driving to a venue is tiresome, parking is even more so and the weather being what it is, MMM is certain bridal couples ought to get their heads examined for getting married in such a lousy season and then inviting people to participate in them. The more MMM reflects, the more he is convinced that South Indian weddings were not meant for the summer. The fire, the crush of relatives, the suffocating garlands and the overbearing priest all add up to a terrible total. But what about driving past wedding halls? Their suffering is as much if not more than those who attend weddings. Most of these places were built or have been designed to cater to one third or perhaps one fifth the crowd that comes and naturally enough, surrounding spaces are taken over for what the halls themselves cannot contain. If this is not chaos enough, most guests think it is a matter of prestige to be dropped off at the entrance of the hall. They just cannot wait till their chauffeur or poor head-of-the-family has found a place to park in and then walk to the venue. And in the process of getting off, they have to indulge in some last minute conversation with chauffeur or poor head-of-the-family thereby delaying everyone else waiting behind. It is not as though traffic in Chennai has come to such a pass that a chauffeur or a poor head-of-the-family who is setting off to park a car may not return the same day. And with the widespread use of cell phones surely they can be contacted at leisure. But animated conversation with one foot in the car and the other on the ground is an absolute must. It is almost akin to famous goodbyes that Shakespeare penned so movingly.

 

If this is not enough, MMM notices that great wedding processions have returned with a vengeance. There was a time when brides and grooms (MMM included) fought shy of sitting in open cars or on horseback with a couple of mewling and puking infants for company, being led in procession with an off-key orchestra belting out movie melodies. MMM remembers MMM, was most vehement and not all the tears of aged relatives who by the simple excuse of claiming that this was the last wedding they would live to see had managed to get hundreds of bridegrooms to agree could get him to budge. The procession did not take place and the aged relatives lived on to witness many more weddings. But today’s bridal couples are made of weaker fibre or perhaps they like these processions for almost every wedding has these traffic stoppers these days.

 

The police is at its wits end and can do nothing beyond try and regulate the traffic that passes these processions. MMM is quite certain that those driving by curse the newlyweds bitterly. And as for the bridegroom (or bride for she too is not exempt on occasion), how does he (or she) benefit by being goggled at from buses, cars and on occasion from passing MRTS trains? The off-key orchestra has been replaced by live singers who follow the procession in a self-contained open truck which adds to the medley but is certainly more faithful to pitch and tune as compared to the singers themselves.

 

MMM, who thought he had seen them all had evidently not run the entire gamut. Last week MMM’s car was stopped by one such wedding procession and as he had no other choice, his route being the same, MMM had to follow the snaking queue till the marriage venue. There he saw a group of men standing on eight foot stilts and doing a most complicated dance in order to welcome the bridegroom. It was almost like Cleopatra’s triumphal entry into Rome.  What next? Midgets doing tricks?

 

Such events speak volumes about the lack of sensitivity we have towards the problems faced by others when we celebrate. MMM wonders as to whether these wedding parties obtain police permission of any sort before they aggrandize the road for their own celebration. Certainly the police has no business giving permission for such events. And if permission is not sought why does the police stand by and watch?