Kapali- Karpagam Kalyanam!

What can I say? Should I sing Ahaha kalyANam like the way Chandrababu did for S Balachander in Penn? Or should it be tirukkalyANam seidu kONDArE
kaNDu darisittellOrkum kATci tandArE

as Kavi Kunjara Bharati sang for Deivanai’s wedding to Murugan?

Last evening a relative was gifting a jewel to the temple and I was serendipitously invited to attend the celestial wedding. Memories from childhood reminded me that this event is a rather tame affair after the hustle and bustle of the daily processions. It is also hard on the nether regions by which I mean hip, glut, hamstring and all below that, for it involves remaining seated on the floor with very little maneuvering space, for four hours. But a ring side seat to witness Kapali’s wedding was too good an offer and who knows when He will invite me again? So I did go and was I glad I did.

There is a picturesqueness to this ceremony that is amazing. The event begins with Kapali all decorated and bejeweled as befitting a bridegroom and waiting opposite the punnai tree. At an appropriate moment the Goddess emerges from the shrine, symbolising Her having shed the peacock form. She then goes around Kapali and the two mount the wedding platform.

Nothing much happened for the next three hours. But the nagaswaram and tavil ensemble was fantastic. I wonder who the artistes (two nagaswaram players) were. Ananda bhairavi and ShaNmukhapriya were the two highlights. During this time the gifts for the bridal couple kept coming in – saris, dhotis, sweets, savouries, flowers and even wooden toys. The action hotted up in the last hour. The priests began the hOmam.The grace with which the officiating priest – Balaji I learnt his name was, did the upachAras and mudrAs was a delight. That a man of such immense bulk could pack so much of elegance was a wonder. He deftly got Kapali into a pancakaccam, changed His sacred thread and then all was ready.

Kapali and Karpagam tied the knot at 10.00pm. The music, the tEvAram and the mantras reached a crescendo when the priest pressed two yellow strands laden with several mangalsUtras on to Kapali’s hands and then tied them one each on the PriyAvIDai (the consort who shares Kapali’s seat) and Karpagam. He then pressed kumkumam on Kapali’s hand and took it across to the Goddess and daubed Her forehead with it.

Almost as if by clockwork, several ladies in the throng, who had waited thus far with huge covered vessels, opened them and began distributing sweets. The preparation and distribution are voluntary efforts and this participative spirit is what makes the brahmOtsavam festival so popular. Everyone rejoiced as though it was a family event.

I left by 10.30 pm. Somehow the hip, glut and hamstring do not enjoy these events as much as the eye, heart and mind. I wished I had the stern resolve of my friend Saseendran who was staying on to witness Kapali go around the tank at midnight, with Ravana as His mount. Next year maybe…

Video clip of Karpagambal dancing

This dance is performed when Shiva/Kapaliswara comes out at Bhikshatana.

Of course no video can ever do justice to what actually happens and this is a poor attempt. But still…

For further details, see -
http://sriramv.wordpress.com/2013/03/27/bhikshatana-procession-at-kapali-temple/

Bhikshatana procession at Kapali temple

Kapali as Bhikshatana

Today has been a strange day. Was invited in the afternoon to Kalakshetra to give a talk on the Kapali temple festival. Was given cash remuneration at the end of it. Driving back via the temple it occurred to me that the money belonged to Kapali as I had merely spoken of His event. So made a vague resolve to contribute the money at some date.

Reaching home was asked by wife if I had ‘x’ amount which was the same as what I received from Kalakshetra. Handed it over and then asked what was it meant for. Transpires that she is contributing to something at the temple and this was the amount due!!!!!! Strange are the ways of God.

Kapali as Bikshatana

In the evening went with about 50 Kalakshetra students to see the Bhikshatana procession. Shiva as Chandrashekara would have gone riding a horse all around the four mada streets last night, well after the arupathu moovar festival. He loses his signet ring and when he returns to the temple finds it locked. Parvati does not let him in suspecting him of having gone to the house of another. So on the 9th day of the festival, Shiva, shorn of all wealth sets out as a beggar – Bhikshatana. The women of the town are so enamoured of his good looks that they rush to give him alms. This makes Parvati insecure. She rushes out to him. Dressed as Mohini, she performs a spirited dance to entice him. Shiva relents and the two go back to the temple to be united in wedlock on the 10th day.

The rapprochement

The Bhiskhatana icon at the Kapaliswara temple is a thing of beauty. I have a vague memory of it being brought out as it is, without any decoration, when I was a child. Nowadays they decorate it richly, rather belying the impression of a divine mendicant. The ochre robes (silk at that) is the only indication of asceticism.

Also see –


The star of the show is however Parvati and her dance and so I captured this on video. The movements demand exemplary fitness and stamina on the part of the bearers. They jump, sway, lurch and swing. It is simply amazing. In the days of yore, this was the procession in which Devadasis of Mylapore such as Doraikannu and her daughter the famed Mylapore Gowri would dance. Could not help reflecting that the Kalakshetra students were walking on the very road where Gowri once danced…

The 63!

The balder I get, the more difficult I find going out in the sun. So having experimented with various timings for visiting the arupathumoovar festival (including one disastrous year when I tried to go at 3.00 pm), I have now hit upon the right timing – 10.00 pm.
At that time, the crowd is just about 100000000 strong and not 1000000000 strong and that makes all the difference. The sun too, has long called it a day.

I cant say these are great photos but this was the best I could manage. I have managed to get some control over the issue of grainy photos I think.

The 63 at the 16 pillared hall

By the time I reached,the deities were just about to re-enter the temple.

Karpagambal at the arupathumoovar festival

The best I could manage of Kapali was a shaky shot

Kapali at Arupathumoovar

Singaravelar was a lot better

Singaravelar, Arupathumoovar festival

All of them together was not a great pic

And finally Vairamudi Swami – known as such because at one time he would arrive for this procession decked in the diamonds loaned by the Lodd Govinddoss family. Now I am told that practice is discontinued.

Vairamudi Swami

Missed several such as the Kolavizhi Amman, Tiruvalluvar and Vasuki, Mundagakanni Amman and Ratnamudi Swami. Next year certainly.

# kogul flavours of Mylapore temple festival

Kabaali
Athigara Nandi
Arubathumoovar
Aruvathimoovar
Bhoodha Vaganam
Vaaganam
Sandikeswarar
Panja moorthi
Ustavam
Sostram

Vrshabha Vahanam 2013

Last night’s vrshabha vAhanam procession culminated this morning at the 16 pillared pavilion on Sannadhi Street outside the Kapaliswarar Temple.

Let me begin with Chandikesha whom I saw first

Chandikeswarar, Vrshabha Vahanam 2013

Then I saw Kapali and was reminded of the line uttunga kamanIya vrSha turangam from Dikshitar’s cintaya mAkanda mUlakandam

Kapaliswarar, Vrshabha Vahanam 2013

After that, Karpagambal

Karpagambal, Vrshabha Vahanam 2013

thath paschath Singaravelar

Singaravelar, Vrshabha Vahanam 2013

and finally Ganesha

Nartana Vinayakar, Vrshabha Vahanam 2013

It was all in reverse order and perhaps as appropriate punishment, every picture has come out grainy. I use a Panasonic DMC FS25. Could it be some setting issue?

Kapali and Karpagam at the 16 pillared pavilion

But what the eye could see, no camera can capture. Kapali danced and by God, He gets better every year. This year we had English Note, For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow and also a kind of snake dance tune. After He was taken into the temple, He must have danced for an hour but I did not follow. I was unbathed and I could see all my ancestors waiting anxiously to see if I would break with tradition. Don’t worry guys, I did not.

Tomorrow is Ther.

Adhikara Nandi 2013

Kapali came out in all his finery to view his demesne this morning.The angels were on duty…

Angel at South Mada Street

… and so were the female variety…

The gandharvi at South Mada Street

Ganesha rushed ahead as usual

Nartana Vinayakar, Kapaliswarar Temple

Followed by majestic Kapali on Adhikara Nandi…

Kapali on Adhikara Nandi

…with Karpagam behind…

Karpagambal during Adhikara Nandi sevai

…on Gandharvi

Karpagambal on Gandharvi, Adhikara Nandi sevai

… followed by Singaravelar on Gandharva…

Singaravelar on Gandharva

…and Chandikeswarar…

Chandikeswarar, Kapali temple

… to the accompaniment of nagaswaram

O Papanasam Sivan – umakku kODi nanri solla vENDum, for giving us kANa kaNN kODi for this occasion. Your name will live as long as we have a Kapali Utsavam.

A knock-kneed Santa Claus?

Near the Amman Shrine at the Kapaliswarar Temple

Wonder who this is. It is almost as though Santa had trouble with Rudolph the reindeer. On an allied note, the Kapaliswarar temple’s annual festival begins today.

Singaravelar procession

Singaravelar in Adam Street

Theruvil vaaraano was the line that came to mind. I was returning from my usual Sunday evening walk to Mylapore when turning into darkened Adam Street I saw this procession advancing in a blaze of light. Fireworks lit up the sky a short while later.

Singaravelar stops at a house

It was Singaravelar from the Kapaliswarar temple. He stopped at practically every house on Adam Street and accepted offerings. I then noticed that there was another procession forming just behind. Now who could that be?

Muthukumaraswami from Velleeswarar Temple

It was Muthukumaraswami from Velleeswarar Temple! A little less grandiose but charming nonetheless. Now what were these two doing wandering about after dark? And with all those jewels and the two consorts too! I did not stop to ask and am still wondering as to what brought them in procession.

I was reminded of Subbarama Iyer’s padam – Ini yenna pecchu irukkidu

What is there to talk about? Go away!
Everyone is laughing over it

Having kept me here and not turning up to visit even once! Is that not enough of a blunder O Muthia who wields the spear?

It has all happened as wished
All limits have been crossed
O Lord of Valli of the fragrant tresses
O playboy who is moved by the Tamil of Subbarama (what is there to…)

When Mylapore comes alive …

This was written for XS Real’s blog –
http://xsreal.com/blog/?p=152

The Kapaliswarar Temple is a very important shrine of this city and its ten day annual festival in the Hindu month of Panguni (Mar/Apr) is all about participation. On all the days, five deities, Ganesa, Kapaliswara, Karpagamba, Singaravela with consorts and Chandikeswara are brought out in procession twice, once in the morning and again at night on various mounts. And each day’s procession is accompanied by nagaswaram and tavil ensembles which walk along with the procession and perform at specified spots. A western band also accompanies the deities.

Nagaswaram ensemble during Adhikara Nandi procession

Certain days are more important than others during the ten day festival. The third morning has Kapaliswara borne aloft on the silver Adhikara Nandi. Karpagambal and Singaravelar are borne by veena wielding divine personages. The whole atmosphere is filled with musical associations for Nandi is considered a master on the drum. The bearers sway from side to side as they carry Adhikara Nandi and this gives the impression that the Lord is dancing. It is an awe-inspiring spectacle. It is no wonder that this procession inspired the great composer Papanasam Sivan to compose Kaana Kann Kodi Vendum in raga Kamboji. In the word picture it paints of the Adhikara Nandi sevai, this song is unsurpassed.

Kapaliswara on Adhikara Nandi

On the fifth day the vrishabha vahanam procession takes place late at night. Kapaliswara rides a silver vrishabham or bull while Karpagambal is on a golden vrishabham and Singaravela on a golden peacock. The procession takes the whole night to wend its way around the four Mada Streets and it is early morning and still dark when the five deities are brought to the sixteen-pillared hall on Sannidhi Street.

Kapaliswarar on Silver Rishabham

The seventh day has the car festival when thousands throng the temple and the four streets to witness the procession of five chariots.

Ther stuck at RK Mutt Road corner

The eighth day is the most important. Legend has it that Sambandar, the great 7th century devotee of Siva and one of his chosen 63 followers, composed ten verses to resurrect the dead Poompavai, the daughter of a Mylapore based businessman, Sivanesan Chettiar. Each verse describes at least one festival of the temple – the Shravanam festival in the month of Aippasi (Oct/Nov), Tirukarthikai in Nov/Dec, Tiruvadirai in Margazhi (Dec/Jan), Poosam in Thai (Jan/Feb), the ritual bath in the ocean in Masi (Feb/Mar) and the annual temple festival during the month of Panguni (Mar/Apr). It is clear from the verses that these festivals, which are celebrated even today, were well established even then. The Poompavai Pathigam as it is called, also describes Mayilai to be a prosperous settlement with groves, splendid buildings and occupied by good and pious people. In Sambandar’s time the eighth day was when Siva came out in procession with his eighteen bhoota ganas or ghostly attendants. In time it metamorphosed into the day when Siva comes out in procession with his 63 devotees, the Arupattu Moovar, all of them preceding him in palanquins, with their faces turned towards him; their palms pressed together in adoration. Deities from other temples join the procession and lakhs of devotees throng the area. Pandals are put up at all locations and water, cold drinks and food are distributed to the throng by devotees. Some of the tanneer pandals as they are called, have a hoary history themselves, going back as they do by many years. A unique song associated with the Arupathu Moovar festival is the Vazhinadai Chindu, written by an anonymous poet in the early years of the 20th century. It describes in Chindu format, the route taken by a beau and beloved of George Town to attend the Arupathu Moovar festival. The song describes several landmarks of Chennai.

Arupattumoovar at Kapali Temple

On the ninth day, Siva comes as Bhikshatana, the handsome beggar who seduced the wives of the sages of Darukavana. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Doraikannu, the Devadasi of the temple would lead this procession dressed as Bhikshatana herself and her dance would thrill the audience. At a particular point in the Bhikshatana procession, Kapaliswara is met by Karpagambal decked out as Mohini. It is now the turn of the Goddess to dance and she performs most spiritedly and finally enchants him.

Kapaliswarar as Bhikshatana

The tenth day witnesses the wedding of Kapaliswara and Karpagamba and late at night after the ceremony, the deities are brought out on the Ravana Vahana. On this occasion, musical accompaniment is provided by the mukha veena, a variety of clarionet.

Ravana Vahanam, Kapaliswarar Temple

A unique feature of the ten day festival is the dolls exhibition at the Vyasarpadi Vinayaka Mudaliar Chattram often referred to as Bommai Chattram on South Mada Street. This building which functions as a marriage hall for the rest of the year transforms itself into a dolls-house for the ten days and on display are age-old leather puppets and clay dolls all of which are locked up for the rest of the year.

The Bommai Chattiram endowed by Vyasarpadi Vinayaka Mudaliar

The vidayatri festival begins immediately after the brahmotsavam and continues for ten days. The Lord and His consort are entertained each evening by music and kalakshepam performances.

Karagam to welcome Kapali

The ten days of the festival see Mylapore going back in time and becoming a village once again. Clay pots, traditional toys and native beads will be available on sale, in makeshift stalls set up by vendors who come from far and wide to do business. True, the logistics of such an event had become daunting over the years, but when public spirit is more than willing, what cannot be achieved?