Party Manifestos

April 17, 2014

All parties have only one manifesto – Vote for me! But there are some subliminal messages which keep coming through:

Congress – Defeat Modi. Also we are secular, we empowered women and we brought RTI.

BJP – Vote Modi (LK Advani has a different manifesto as do Murli Manohar Joshi, Sushma Swaraj, Navjot Singh Sidhu, Uma Bharti….. but we dont need to go into that)

BSP – We dont care who is the largest party but just get us enough seats so that we can bargain with them for (y)our benefit. This manifesto can be anyone else’s also- SP, JP, Biju Janata Dal, TMC, ADMK, DMK,TDP, TRS, SAD, MNS, etc.

ADMK – Vote for Amma.

DMK – Dont vote Amma (pleeeeeeeaaaaaasssse!!!!!) This is Thatha’s last election so sob, sob! Also Amma responsible for Kaveri water crisis, power crisis and all other crisis. When we were in power we hid them all from you.

TMC – Only thosh who bhote phor didi are shekoolar and not maoisht

Left – We dont know. Our rout(e) will be clear after May 16th. Oh what a pity matchmaker Harkishen Singh Surjeet is dead.

AAP – Dont vote Ambani, Adani

Some street names in Swamimalai

April 15, 2014

What with my having fallen in love with Indeco’s Swamimalai heritage resort, going there has become an annual affair. I was there this year in February and one morning, as part of my daily exercise, I walked from the resort which is neighbouring Bapurajapuram to Swamimalai town. En route, what with the Swamimalai Municipality having taken its duties very seriously, I could not help noticing the bright blue signboards bearing street names. I am thankful for these in every way – their visibility and the fact that they bring long forgotten street names back.

To someone from Chennai, where everything is either an Anna or a Kamaraj, with some left over for Gandhi, Nehru and more for Mu Ka et al,the street names of Swamimalai are refreshingly forthright. No hiding of locality history under the guise of secularism. Thus we have:

Muslim Street, Swamimalai

Muslim Street, Swamimalai

Then there were the community-based streets like these:

Chinna Saliyar Street, Swamimalai

Chinna Saliyar Street, Swamimalai

Does Mudukku Theru (the second name on the above signboard) indicate it is a crooked street?And if there was a Chinna Saliyar Street, a Periya Saliyar Street had to be close by. As it was:

Periya Saliyar Street, Swamimalai

Periya Saliyar Street, Swamimalai

I strongly suspect that Yadava Street is a later caption, when the Saliyar community decided to give itself some other name. Some street names were pretty standard and common to several other towns. The main street is Raja Veethi:

Raja Veethi, Swamimalai

Raja Veethi, Swamimalai

And how can any self-respecting town not have a Chinna Kadai Street?

Chinna Kadai Street, Swamimalai

Chinna Kadai Street, Swamimalai

Some names were beyond me. What is Lingadi Street? Though its other name Mettan Theru probably means it is at a relative elevation.

Lingadi Street, Swamimalai

Lingadi Street, Swamimalai

This one probably has some old Mahratta connection:

Khandoji Street, Swamimalai

Khandoji Street, Swamimalai

There was one more which said Madapirappu Kattalai Street (மாதபிறப்பு கட்டளை) – the street for the First Day of the Month Endowment. I dont know what that is.

I suppose a time will come when everything in Swamimalai will come Puram and Nagar (nahar in #kogul). But until then, let us rejoice in some local history.

Lost Landmarks of Chennai – Modern Cafe

April 14, 2014
Modern Cafe, Esplanade

Modern Cafe, Esplanade

Featured here is the Modern Café,which was one of a chain of restaurants begun by K. Seetharama Rao, before he founded the Dasaprakash Hotel on Poonamallee High Road. Modern Café, Mysore (by appointment to HH The Maharajah) was the first. Modern Café, Madras, came next, by the early 1930s. Then followed Modern Hindu Hotel, with two outlets, one each in Mysore and Ootacamund.

The Madras one featured here was on Esplanade Road (now NSC Bose Road). It made its name catering to the lawyers of the High Court. In its heyday, the Modern Café ran a hotel at Hari Nivas, Thambu Chetty Street, and also two other restaurants called Modern Café, one in Egmore and the other at Basin Bridge. Seetharama Rao, whose motto was service, also began the first organised canteen on the Marina, next to the swimming pool, thanks to the encouragement of O. Pulla Reddy, Commissioner of the Corporation of Madras, in the 1940s.

You may want to read about these lost landmarks as well:


The Eastern and Western Castlets

The Madras Bulwark

Lost Landmarks of Chennai – Dasaprakash

April 10, 2014
Dasaprakash Hotel on Poonamallee High Road

Dasaprakash Hotel on Poonamallee High Road

The chief has been drooling over a Madras Guide of the 1950s which has photos of some famed commercial establishments of the city. The quality of print is terrible but still the photos evoke a memory. I have been given the enjoyable task of writing the notes for each.

The first of these is Dasaprakash Hotel. A wonderful art deco building, it was part of a chain built up by Kuttethoor Seetharama Rao who gave up a lowly Government job in 1921 to join his brothers in running a restaurant in Mysore. He later established others in Madras and Ootacamund, and the chain moved to North India in the 1970s and, thereafter, to the USA.

The Poonamallee High Road flagship hotel was inaugurated in 1954, as was its twin kalyana mandapam, Dharmaprakash. The hotel was known for its good Udipi fare, ice creams and comfortable rooms. In its time, its restaurants had seen visitors ranging from Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru to J.K. Galbraith.

Differences in the family and the five-star culture saw the closure of Dasaprakash in the 1990s. The building was demolished in 2010 to make way for highrise after the property changed hands.

Heritage just a facade for Metrorail

April 9, 2014

RSRM Choultry

Barely a month or so after the Raja Sir Savalai Rama­swami Mudaliar (RSRM) Choultry facing Central Station was taken over by Chennai Metrorail Limited (CMRL), rumours are flying thick and fast about what is to happen to the heritage structure. It is reliably learnt that CMRL is contemplating retention of just the frontage of the building and intends to demolish everything else. If this is the truth it is a shame and yet it runs entirely true to the past track record of CMRL.

The land and building comprising the RSRM Choultry were handed over to CMRL following the judgement of the High Court of Madras in litigation that went on for almost two years. CMRL had in its plea committed to preserving the heritage structure and it was on this assurance that it was given possession of the property. We at Madras Musings had even then raised doubts on the capability of CMRL to maintain such a structure. Now it is understood that CMRL claims that it is just the façade of the building which can qualify as heritage and the rest can be done away with.

Why are we not surprised? CMRL has used the same logic not once, but four times already. In the first instance it was the taking over of the old Male Asylum Press property just behind the Poompuhar building on Mount Road. It had then argued that the Justice E. Padma­nabhan Committee report had included only the front (Poom­pu­har) in its report and so the rear did not qualify. Later, in the bitter battle that was fought in the take-over of the rear workshops of P Orr & Sons the same logic was applied. It was in vain that the Indian National Trust for Arts and Cultural Heritage offered to come up with alternative alignments and locations of stations. The judgement of the High Court of Madras went in favour of CMRL and the buildings were demolished.

In the case of Bharat Insurance Buildings too, CMRL has taken over all the land on its side claiming that only the building and not its precinct qualifies for preservation. It has demolished everything but the main structure which is in an enfeebled condition already. Lastly, CMRL also demolished a heritage building in the Teachers’ College campus claim­ing that a photograph of the structure in question did not feature in the Justice Pad­ma­nabhan report.

At the risk of offending those who decide on the fate of such buildings, we make bold to point out here that this logic of CMRL’s is flawed and it is quoting the Justice Padmanabhan Committee report out of context. That Committee was formed to list buildings and precincts that could not be hidden by outdoor hoardings. It naturally looked at all structures from the point of view of their facades only. It is a different matter that the same report was later accepted as a starting point by the Heritage Conservation Committee of the CMDA and the owners of the buildings listed in it requested to consider their buildings as heritage buildings and not undertake any work on them without the Committee’s permission. It was this position that the Committee adopted in the Bharat Insurance Building case. Following that case, the High Court had ordered Government to prevent demolition of all the buildings/precincts listed in the Padma­nabhan Committee report. The Heritage Conservation Committee was asked to go into the merits of each case and take action. As to the functioning of that Committee and the actions it has taken (or the lack of them) we don’t need to go into it; suffice it to say that our readers are quite familiar with the subject.

But it is not correct to keep quoting from a report that had to do with the outer appearances of buildings and insist that the rest of the structures do not, therefore, matter. The Court had made it clear that each of these structures was worthy of preservation, according to the grade in which the Padmanabhan Committee had placed it. There can be no question of frontage or rear. If the CMRL is choosing to interpret the report that way, it is making a mockery of the report and the spirit in which it was prepared.

Coming back to the RSRM Choultry, it is necessary to preserve the entire structure. If it is just to remain a sham façade, CMRL may as well demolish the whole edifice and put up one of its buildings on the site. We may tolerate ugliness in the name of modernity, but we don’t expect hypocrisy in the name of heritage preservation.

Threat to Pulicat lake’s buffer zone

April 8, 2014

If a country had a magnificent lake that dates back to the Holocene period, rich in bio­diversity and history, what would it do? Protect it? Promote it? Neither, if the Ministry of Environment and Forests (MOEF), Government of India, is to be believed. In a startling move, the MOEF has proposed that the buffer zone around Pulicat Lake be reduced from ten to two kilometres! This unexpected blow has environmentalists up in arms.

The move comes following a decision by the Ministry of Shipping, Government of India, to develop Durgarayapatnam (Armagon of Francis Day fame) as a port and shipbuilding centre spread over 5000 acres. The proposed development, notified in September 2013, is expected to take over at least 5 km of protected area in the vicinity of Pulicat. It centres on Tuppili­palem (in Andhra) which happens to be just around 4 km from Pulicat Lake itself.

There are several questions about the sustainability of this port, but the Ministry has decided to go ahead nevertheless. It is to allow for this that the MOEF has, on January 3, 2014, proposed a restricted Eco Sensitive Zone (ESZ) around Pulicat. This overrides the Andhra Pradesh Government Forest Department proposal for a ten-km ESZ around the Lake. That was mooted in 2007, following a Supreme Court order in 2004, asking for ‘shock absorbers’ around ecologically sensitive areas. That it has not yet been notified and remains on paper is yet another matter.

The Lake is of vital importance not only to the Tamil Nadu-Andhra region around it but also to international birdlife.

Firstly, around fifty villages, most of whose occupants rely on traditional methods of fishing, depend on it for their livelihood. The building of a port, however world-class it may promise to be, will immediately mean the end of a way of life. It must be pointed out that most of the fisherfolk here practise what is known as the padu system of fishing. Known for its ecologically sensitive way of harvesting fish, it is already facing a decline thanks to the setting up of the Ennore Thermal Power Station, which discharges effluents at elevated temperatures into the Lake.

Secondly, the Lake is a bird sanctuary that has international significance, located as it is on the Eastern Flyway of the Central Asian Flyway, a crucial migratory route. Birds while migrating across the globe, therefore, visit it and some of them are highly endangered species. Tampering with their habitats can spell disaster to some birdlife across the world. It is feared that the proposed port will impact not only the flight pattern of the birds but also the aquatic life in the Lake, which forms an important link in the food chain needed for the birds to survive.

Thirdly, the Lake itself depends on three openings to the sea, the northernmost of which is at Durgarayapatnam. It is the view of conservationists that the port will result in the sealing off of that outlet following construction activities. This particular mouth is of immense importance, for it is from here that the seawater enters the lake, the openings in Tamil Nadu serving as exits. If this is to be shut off, the lake will be starved of fresh water supply. The impounded water will evaporate in summer, resulting in hypersalinity, which will kill the aquatic life.

Lastly, India is a signatory to the Ramsar Agreement that aims to protect water bodies. This is “an intergovernmental treaty that embodies the commitments of its member countries to maintain the ecological character of their Wetlands of International Importance and to plan for the wise use, or sustainable use, of all of the wetlands in their territories,” to quote from its website. To what purpose such agreements if they are not to be implemented at ground level?

All glory to great leader…

April 7, 2014

‘Tis election time and anything is campaign material for the political parties concerned. The Man from Madras Musings is even now observing from his eyrie the preparations for something as innocuous as the first birthday of a child. The proud father is a party hopeful and is ensuring that the great leader of his party notices his efforts and awards him with a ticket.

This man is from what is known as a humble origin. But ever since he hitched his wagon on to a political outfit (and not a major one at that), his status has changed, all glory be to the great leader. His marriage, if you were to believe the posters put up then, was thanks to the great leader. The visuals had the couple posing with an image of the great leader above them with hands raised in blessing. From the hands of the great leader (glory unto the person, in case MMM did not mention it before) emerged a shower of flowers in benediction.

Anyway, the union was blessed, thanks wholly, if the posters put up then were to be believed, to the great leader. The bouncing baby is now one, thanks to glorious leader and celebrations are underway, by grace of glorious leader. It is a girl child; so the father is not entirely happy, but then he must not forget that when she comes of age (once again because of the great leader), there will be a public celebration, also known as grand ­turmeric bath in local parlance. One more opportunity to show ­fealty to the great leader.

The current celebrations began, MMM noticed, with a ceremonial digging of the ­footpaths all along the way. Flags, cut-outs and buntings have been put up, all of the glorious leader, on poles planted in the holes dug up. When MMM ­objected, he has been assured that the stones will be ­replaced, great leader willing, in due course of time. Tube lights, with electricity provided gratis, no doubt from the supply to chez MMM and others in the neighbourhood, have lit up the roads like the way no street light has ever done. It would be a pleasure to drive along with such illumination, but, alas, none in the neigh­bour­hood can pull out any ­vehicle. The leader’s faithful have blocked all entries and exits. Banana stalks in their hundreds have been slaughtered and put up along the way, no doubt an indication of the state of the republic.

Songs praising the great leader are blaring, enough to make the one-year old deaf. But it may be better off that way, for the songs are attacking those opposed to the glorious leader in such cheap terms that the child, if able to hear and absorb, may be corrupted forever, like its father. Talking about father, posters and banners of himself put up all along the route, though of a size smaller than those of the great leader, have been scaring some of the small children who have turned up hoping for cake. The elders appear to have come for other refreshments, for MMM can see several swaying as they leave, some singing hymns in praish (hic) of the leader.

With so much of adoring of the great one, MMM hopes that the celebrant gets a ticket and is successful. For only then can MMM hope for the footpath to be restored to its former state of glory, such as it was, like the great leader.

Still more wedding gifts…

April 3, 2014

Last fortnight’s tract/diatribe on wedding gifts has had the faithful readership sending in their comments by the dozen. And it has made the task of The Man from Madras Musings that much easier when it comes to this fort­night’s column. What with the temperatures increasing by the minute and election noises reaching fever pitch, MMM is unable to think and needs all the help he can get.


How could MMM have forgotten the drinking birds, asks a regular correspondent. And MMM recalled with horror that particular excrescence which was at one time a regular on the gifts circuit. It was structured in the form of a large glass goblet that had an amber liquid in it. On either side were two pelicans (or were they storks), completely transparent and with huge stomachs that also had the same amber fluid in them. The birds were for some strange and unexplained reason attired with top hats and their abdomens (by which MMM means those of the birds and not the hats) were hinged to their legs (again the birds’ and not the hats’). If you pressed the birds’ heads they would begin bobbing up and down into the large goblet giving you the impression that they were quaffing the amber liquid. What this horror had to do with weddings is beyond MMM’s comprehension, but then there it was. Scarcely a wedding t here was in the city of Madras that did not feature these toping birds.

What about wall clocks, asks another reader. And, yes, MMM doffs his hat in acquiescence. There was a time when wedding guests said it with clocks. Square, triangular, rectangular, circular, pyramidal, they came in all geometric shapes and sizes. Most of them were of a ghastly pink, more or less of the shade seen at the Presidency College dome and at Rajaji Hall, a shade the Chief delights in calling seeni­muttai pink. They had all the kinds of tunes (MMM recalls one that chimed Happy Birthday To You every hour). The problem was that each couple got at least twenty of these. You may think that they could pass these on to others, but the clocks were singularly ill-adapted for this. The main reason being the flat front faces on which several of those who gifted them had their own names etched in perpetuity, the more sinister-minded adding the date of the wedding as well. That more or less dashed all chances of giving them away. More evil-minded were those who had a metal plate riveted to the rear, giving the same details – name of giver, date etc. There was no option but to pack the clocks away and hope that time would take care of the eventual destruction of the clock.

The last word on gifts, says another reader, and MMM agrees with her, is the wooden tower-like object painted in black with two horns on top to make it look like a temple spire. This has a silver disc of a god, or goddess, fixed to the front. There is nothing more useless than this gift apart from the fact that it is uniquely Tamil in its identity. You cannot do anything with it, apart from hammer nails into walls. The sole advantage they have over other gifts is that they are cheap and come in large sizes and so make for an impressive present, especially when pack­ed.

You may want to read this also – In cash we trust

Recording of my talk on V Krishnaswami Aiyar

April 1, 2014

The talk is up in full on Youtube at this link:

You can also read accounts of his life at:

Parts 1 and 2

100 years of a statue

The Man who saved The Marina

April 1st special from Coimbatore

April 1, 2014

Coimbatore, or CBE as it is referred to in my office, always throws up surprises.

Not quite KFC no?

Not quite KFC no?

Apparently it is Labbaik’s Fried Chicken!


Everything is so closely copied that you could almost be fooled, which is what today is all about anyway.


Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 1,765 other followers

%d bloggers like this: